If you desire to do the job right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and really see what's going on. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
Second, you have to remove copper fouling. Here is a list of what I utilize. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods.
Eliminate the brush, hose it down again, and put it aside to dry. Wipe off the cleaning rod with a paper towel. Take your spot rod, and put three solvent repair the bore. The last one need to come out nearly white. When it does, follow with a dry spot.
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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or just a faint wash of copper occasionally, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and lumps and streaks, it's back to the J-B.
If you do not have a borescope, run a solvent patch up the bore and let it sit, muzzle slightly down, for a couple of hours. Run another solvent spot through, and if it comes out clean, you're done, however if it has green or blue spots, back to the J-B.
Now, some basic notes. Some barrels copper-foul much worse than others. As a guideline, the more you invest on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will foul. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do burglary treatments work? I question it. I have actually had a couple of cases where a barrel suddenly began to group as I reached completion of the procedure, however I've had far more break-ins that made no distinction at all.
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They work, often, however if you forget and leave the stuff in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore however excellent, and given that I'm at the age where I forget things, I'm unwilling to take the chance. Likewise, they're hell on stock surfaces. With a bolt-action, go simple on the Break-Free.
Take a cue from the military, whose lives depend upon their guns going bang. They desire them spotless. And immaculate is a great way to go.
The steps to appropriately clean your rifle depend upon whether you are doing a field removing or total disassembly. We'll cover fundamental field stripping in this article. Due to the range of rifles, total disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this article. This is the most essential action in the whole cleansing procedure.
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, and get rid of any loose particles that may be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber.
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One typical myth is that more is much better when it concerns lubrication of your firearm. You wish to adequately oil where required, but too much can result in extreme residues, which can lead to malfunctions and handling concerns (slippery). Lubing cloths are an exceptional tool since they assist control the amount of oil/lubrication being utilized in any offered location of your gun.
The treatment is basic. Soak a couple spots in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Keep in mind, keep your barrel clamped or pointed down to prevent any solvent collecting near the actionsee Action 1.) Allow it to sit, and bear in mind that eliminating copper can take a while.
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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Simply let it sit again, and repeat. If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Just let it sit once again and repeat. Expense Buckley Note: There's a great deal of talk about how these copper solvents can harm your bore.
What you do not want is to let any ammonia solvent dry in there. So as soon as you're satisfied that the copper is gone, run a number of dry patches down the bore, followed by a number of patches that have been damp with a regular cleansing solvent. Run three or 4 dry patches down the bore to eliminate any staying solvent.